the savory first

the savory first: "

It’s the time of year when my thoughts are monopolized by Thanksgiving.  I dig out old November issues from my food magazine archives (which are getting out of hand, despite the fact that my Gourmet pile has stopped growing).  I flip through photos of Thanksgivings-past.  I compile a recipe index for this site.  I stock the spice cupboard with cinnamon and nutmeg and allspice.  I fill the freezer with to-be-rolled-out pie dough.  I select a dress for the day and make a mental note to pack yoga pants for the cozy, post-dinner portion of the day.  I read up on turkey varieties and new techniques for preparing the bird.

And, of course, I start to test out recipes.  This year is no different, even though I’m not hosting this year (unlike last year), but rather pitching in in my parents’ kitchen.

Last weekend, two test recipes passed through my kitchen.  One sweet, one savory—and winners, both.  (Mom, if you’re reading this, leave some room on that menu I know you’re dreaming up!)  As is the case on the holiday itself, we’ll endure the savory first, before getting on to the sweet.  But the silver lining is this: this savory recipe has a subtle undertow of sweetness.  It’ll hold you over until we get to the sweet recipe later this week (hint!), I guarantee it.

The sweetness in these biscuits—rustic little pull-apart numbers, which are baked in a cast-iron skillet, nestled in close to each other—comes from the addition of mashed sweet potato, which also gives off a faintly-autumnal hue.  Tucked into wicker baskets, lined with linen napkins, these biscuits will be right at home perched on the corners of my parents’ table this Thanksgiving.  If I know my step-dad, he’ll insist (despite my most persuasive protestations) on buying a quantity of breads from Wuollet Bakery that will make my mom blush and would surely have Dr. Atkins rolling over in his grave.  But I think these little biscuits just might best those bakery-bought breads.

They’re sweet and tender—just crumbly enough.  I think they’d be lovely with a slather of sweet butter (or, ooooooh, I know: maple butter!) and I have a hunch they’d also serve as a perfect vehicle for the last spoonful of cranberry relish.

So, that’s that.  These have been added to the Thanksgiving roster.  The only debate now is whether to make one batch or two.  I wouldn’t want people to fill up on the biscuits.  Remember: there’s pie on the way.

See you back here soon with that pie recipe!  In the meantime, are you all trying out new Thanksgiving recipes? Do tell!  Any old favorites to share?

Sweet Potato Biscuits

Adapted Slightly from Bon Appetit (Molly Wizenberg)

Yield: 12 to 15 biscuits

One 3/4-pound red-skinned sweet potato (yam), peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 3/4 cups all purpose flour

1 tablespoon (packed) dark brown sugar

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Pinch of cayenne pepper

8 tablespoons (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, plus 2 tablespoons butter, melted

1/3 cup chilled buttermilk

Cook sweet potato in medium saucepan of boiling salted water until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain, cool, and mash.

Position rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 425°F. Butter bottom and sides of 8- or 9-inch cast iron skillet (or 8- or 9-inch cake pan).

Whisk flour and next 5 ingredients in large bowl. Add cubed butter to flour mixture; toss to coat and rub in with fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Whisk 3/4 cup mashed sweet potatoes and buttermilk in medium bowl. Add to flour mixture; toss with fork. Gather mixture in bowl, kneading until dough comes together. Turn dough out onto floured work surface and pat into 1-inch-thick round. Using 2-inch round biscuit cutter, cut out biscuits, flouring cutter after each cut. Gather scraps; pat into 1-inch-thick round. Cut out additional biscuits, until the dough has been used.

Arrange biscuits side by side in prepared skillet or pan. Brush with melted butter. Bake until puffed and golden on top and tester inserted into center biscuit comes out clean, about 22 minutes. Cool 10 minutes in pan. Turn biscuits out and gently pull them apart.

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